Yannick Alléno’s latest opening, L’Abysse Monte-Carlo, celebrates zero-waste dining with an emphasis on fresh Mediterranean produce
Yannick Alléno needs no introduction. The globally-renowned chef is famed for his ability to merge tradition with cutting-edge techniques. With multiple Michelin stars to his venues, including three at his flagship restaurant Pavillon Ledoyen in Paris, Alléno is revered for pushing the boundaries of French cuisine. His work combines deep respect for culinary heritage with a passion for innovation, resulting in dishes that are both refined and groundbreaking.
Alléno’s influence reaches beyond his restaurants, as he continues to shape the future of gastronomy through his books and thought-provoking culinary philosophies. Here we discuss his latest opening in Monte-Carlo.
How has your culinary journey evolved from the early days to being a Michelin-starred chef?
I’ve been lucky enough to meet some wonderful people along the way who have helped me realise my ambitions. What always stays the same is the desire to do things well and thoroughly, with constant attention to detail. That’s what makes the difference in the end. And when you believe in something, never give up.
What inspired you to create L’Abysse Monte-Carlo?
I wanted to get closer to the Mediterranean Sea. I created the first L’Abysse in Paris, and when I came to Monaco, I fully immersed myself in the region. I’m also fascinated by Japan – I must have been there 40 times! L’Abysse Monte-Carlo is a blend of my expertise in French cuisine and that of sushi master Yasunari Okazaki. Together, we create a unique dialogue with Mediterranean produce at its heart. There are no borders while exploring this terroir, and I wanted us to seek out the most unlikely fish, such as the moray eel.
Can you share the vision and what you hope to convey through this novel experience?
My vision is to bring the awareness of seasonal and local fish and the richness of Mediterranean waters to the forefront. Our creations evolve with the catch of Monegasque fishermen, and we have embodied this in the gyotaku technique. Historically, Japanese fishermen tracked their catches by coating them with ink and pressing them onto washi paper as a keepsake. This memorable imprint is something we share with our customers, serving as a reminder of the importance of responsible, seasonal fishing.
Can you share a moment when your emotions significantly influenced a dish you created?
When I create a dish, I’m more interested in the product and taste. Emotion comes after and is the consequence of this research, of this accomplished work. Creating emotion is, of course, the greatest reward of all when you’re cooking. The dishes, the service, the atmosphere, the place – each element is important. At L’Abysse Monte-Carlo, we start the menu with what I call “salty emotions” before giving way to the nigiri collection.
What unique elements or signature dishes can diners expect?
You have to experience the moment in its entirety through one of our two menus: Empreinte or Omakase. Whether you choose one or the other, you begin a journey in which sauces and extractions are paramount and come into dialogue with Mediterranean and Japanese products. I’m thinking of the whole sole, which is the quintessence of the product and a perfect illustration of the Japanese neutrality of taste.
How do you approach sustainability in your culinary practices?
We work closely with local fishermen who respect the environment. Fish are caught after studying and accounting for their reproductive cycles, and the fishing methods used do not alter the seabed. In the restaurant, we utilise the whole product, every part of the animal. We also use raw, durable materials such as wood and ceramics. We don’t use plastic; our preparations are done in earthenware pots.
Can you share your philosophy on sourcing ingredients and how it influences the menu?
In Monaco, we’re fortunate to be between the sea and the mountains. Our fruits and vegetables come from the Monegasque hinterland and local markets. Locally caught fish, sourced using environmentally friendly methods, heavily influences our dinner menu. Squid, horse mackerel, capon, bass, dentin, St. Pierre, and red tuna are just some of the fish you can find at dinner.
Can you recount a significant failure in your career and how it shaped you as a chef?
It’s not a failure in the strict sense of the word, but when I first arrived at Pavillon Ledoyen, François Simon, the eminent gastronomic critic, published an article on gourmet restaurants stating that all chefs cooked more or less the same thing. At the time, I grumbled; it was a blow to the ego. However, with a little hindsight, I realised he was right. That’s when I truly developed my culinary identity. You could say I became a chef at 40.
What legacy do you hope to leave for the next generation of chefs?
Auguste Escoffier was a reformer of French cuisine, and his legacy includes many things about cooking and service codes. With this in mind, I’m making my contribution to the edifice by providing answers to contemporary challenges: chocolates with a lower glycemic index, table concierge for customised and personalised service, sauces that are less fatty and more straightforward thanks to extraction processes, I believe that cuisine must evolve with its time and its era. Passing on knowledge is an integral part of our mission, and I’ve trained around a hundred talents in the restaurant business, including some thirty chefs who now have Michelin stars. They will have the restaurants of tomorrow, and I take great pleasure in supporting them in developing their skills and advancing their careers.
Are there any upcoming projects or collaborations you’re excited about?
L’Abysse Monte-Carlo is already a fantastic project that brings me joy and pride; having said that, I’m always thinking about the next step. Stay tuned!
